KHAKIS’ Croft Jean
Khakis reinterprets the iconic elements of vintage denim with modern
sensibilities and techniques, offering a harmonious style that bridges the
past and present.
Denim evolves through wear and washing, developing a unique character as its
original color and texture gradually change. The Croft Jean from Khakis’
Fall/Winter 2024 collection preserves the distinct texture and details of
vintage denim while providing enhanced versatility and comfort. Khakis’ denim,
embodying these efforts, was perfected through independent research and
dedication.
Khakis’ Croft Jean has been crafted with great attention to detail, starting
from the fabric selection process. Unlike the previously introduced Stock 5P
Jean, the Croft Jean highlights its vintage appeal by thoroughly testing the
color, texture, and shrinkage of the fabric based on the washing process,
ultimately selecting the most suitable fabric. The 13oz selvedge denim used in
the Croft Jean is made from yarn spun in Aichi Prefecture, Japan, a region
renowned for its textile industry, and the final stages are completed in
Okayama Prefecture, known as the home of premium denim. This fabric features a
subtle red selvedge stitch, an irregular weave, and a pronounced texture. Over
time, it develops a natural, variegated fade as it's worn.
Every part of the Croft Jean is sewn using UJ Core thread, produced by UJyo
Bussan in Okayama, Japan. Unlike the nylon and polyester core thread commonly
used in denim, UJ Core thread is made by wrapping cotton around a polyester
core, maintaining the durability of polyester while capturing the natural
qualities of cotton. This combination provides a unique fading effect and a
rougher texture. Khakis’ denim is constructed with four different thicknesses
and five colors of cotton core thread, carefully chosen according to each
section and purpose of the jeans. Over time, natural fading and discoloration
occur repeatedly, creating a unique color and texture that is distinct to the
wearer.
The stitching process of Khakis’ denim pants uses the Union Special sewing
machine. Union Special, established in 1881, is an American industrial sewing
machine brand known for its chain stitch method, where the thread is
interwoven like a chain rather than using a standard single stitch. This
method offers stitching that is stronger and more durable than standard sewing
machines, creating pants hems that particularly highlight the washing effect.
The hem, finished with chain stitching, develops a unique pattern known as
rope fading over time, further accentuating the allure of the denim.
The Croft Jean reflects vintage denim characteristics through hidden rivet and
hidden bartack details. Hidden rivets, placed inside the back pockets, are
invisible from the outside but reinforce the pocket’s durability. This
technique, commonly used in denim from the 1930s-40s, emphasizes practicality
and strength. Additionally, hidden bartacks strengthen the stitching in areas
prone to wear and tear, enhancing the overall durability of the garment. These
design details elevate the product's quality while offering a modern
reinterpretation of vintage denim’s charm.
Instead of the traditional button fly, the Croft Jean features a zipper fly
for improved convenience and durability, using zippers from Waldes. The zipper
tape, made of 100% cotton, develops natural puckering and texture after
washing. During the sewing process, the zipper tape, originally dark navy,
fades to a vintage red hue after repeated washes, adding a timeworn aesthetic.
The denim pants from Khakis are finalized through a washing process after the
sewing process is completed. The raw denim pants undergo stone washing and
tinting processes, resulting in the intended base colors of Mid Blue and Light
Blue. Once this process is complete, they move on to the next stage.
The whisker washing applied below the front pockets intricately represents the
natural fading that occurs in areas that typically wrinkle with extended wear.
This technique captures the creases and wear that develop over time, while the
optimal whisker board pattern creates a natural aging effect, giving the
impression of having been worn for a long time.
Additionally, Khakis' denim pants undergo a brushed washing process, a
technique that subtly bleaches the fabric's surface to replicate a more
refined vintage aesthetic. This meticulous washing process yields a deep color
variation, resulting in a more natural texture and feel over time.
We focus on creating clothes that can be worn more often and for longer. This commitment is encapsulated in our slogan, "MADE TO LAST" which is embodied in all Khakis products. While preserving the essence of vintage denim, Khakis adds its own unique flair, ensuring that our denim pants become a lasting part of the wearer’s daily life.
